Bind off...

It is with a heavy heart that I announce the passing of my very own, personal knitting guru - Nanny. Without her, I am sure that I would never have knitted - let alone be the knitter that I am today.

Her talent, knowledge and patience has been my boon. She shared all of it with me, the lucky girl that I am.

In her later years she has flattered me with comments about my skill and the fact that she never could have knitted without a pattern - to which I must retort, it is probably only because she never thought to.

She lived to be 92 years old. We were able to enjoy her, happy and healthy, up until 3 weeks before her passing - we were very lucky.

Nanny learned to knit, in school, at the age of 6 - not from her mother. The only thing she ever remembers her mother knitting were navy blue socks for the family (I would assume that a family of 6 would need plenty of socks!). In school, in Scotland, the first project a child knitted was a pair of socks - which she claims to have never finished, to her mother's dismay.

My grandmother was a great seamstress, enjoyed doing embroidery and needlepoint, too. But, I always remember her having something on her knitting needles, no matter what other project she was working on. My grandfather was always outfitted in gorgeous, warm pullovers, cardigans and handknit jackets. Right through to my early adult years, I could expect a yearly sweater or cardigan from her - the birth of my own children took her focus off clothing me and put it towards them. There are numerous photos of me as a young child in full outfit sets that my grandmother had knitted for me, as there are of my kids.

In the past few years, she began to have trouble knitting with anything less than worsted weight. The last couple of years had her having difficulty reading and following patterns. She fell back to knitting afghans with a repetative pattern that was second nature to her. Every time she finished an afghan, she swore that it was the last one...until she cast on another!

She was knitting right up to the end, though, and had just cast on for another afghan when she had the fall that hospitalized her.

Thank you, Nanny, for giving me a talent that keeps me and my family warm, in body and soul.

Knitters....just like the rest of the population?! Tell me it isn't so!

I was in my LYS, yesterday, and while talking chatting with the owner about the fact that the yarn I was looking for was up on the very top of the cases, rather than in one of the cubicles, she informed me that she had needed to rearrange the stock due to theft.

THEFT - knitters don't steal! But, alas, apparently they do! She has had to move the smaller skeins of wool (coincidentally, some of the more expensive fibres) to the front of the store, or place them over top of the cubicles because she was losing stock!

Due to the nature of knitting and the experience that defines a knitter who thinks that all yarn is "wool", I can't imagine a lay-person being the culprit...it takes someone "in-the-know", namely a knitter, to know what is worth stealing.

I left the store somewhat disillusioned and disappointed. I don't know why, but I guess I assumed that knitters were different, especially knitters who enjoy working with fine fibres. Because we happily spend days, if not weeks of our time knitting something that could be purchased in mere seconds at, often, a fraction of the price, I thought that we scrimped and saved to purchase such fine skeins because we appreciated the labour and skill that goes into the gathering, processing, dyeing and spinning of said yarns.

Although, I pride myself in being pragmatic and being a realist...this is definitely a topic that I wish I had stayed ignorant on.

As requested...

This stocking design came from my love of garter stitch, especially the look of vertical garter stitch. On top of this strange love, I really like the way variegated yarns look in garter stitch. Hence, this stocking was born.

I have a few caveats and suggestions for anyone wanting to follow this pattern:

1. I only have made one, thus far, and there are a few things that I would do differently. I will write the pattern as made with any adjustments or suggestions in brackets.

2. This pattern makes a very generous stocking - 25" long by 6" wide, with a lot of stretch in the width because of the gs.

3. This pattern is very, very easily modified to make a smaller or larger stocking or use of a different yarn - I'm not doing the math for you, though! Also, it can easily be personalized by modifying the toe, heel and cuff.

4. I used third measurements for dividing the foot and leg of this stocking. (60 sts - 2/3 - for leg, 30 sts - 1/3 - for foot). After the toe was added, I felt the foot was too long, but because of the construction of this stocking you can't do much about it unless you want to start over. In the future I will be dividing by quarters (3/4 of stitches for the leg, 1/4 of stitches for the foot). Also, for my own personal taste, I would make it wider as I find this a skinny looking stocking - even though it has lots of stretch for stuffing.

5. If the stocking is hung with the toe facing to the right, the seam will be in the back. If you hang your stockings with toes facing to the left and are concerned with the neatness of your grafting of the seam and the ability for it to blend in unseen, you are going to need to turn the stocking inside out before adding on your toe, heel and cuff. But, it is worth your while to learn how to graft and make it so that your seam is invisible. You can find many tutorials online for grafting in both ss and gs. Here is one to get you started:

http://www.knitting-and.com/knitting/tips/graft.htm

Sideways Stocking

You will need:
150 g worsted weight yarn (mc)
50 g worsted weight yarn (cc)
4.5 mm straight or circular needles
4.5 mm dpn
large stitch holder (or scrap yarn to hold stitches)
stitch marker

Cast on 90 stitches (or your choice of sts) on straight or circular needles. No need to join because you are working flat at this point.

Knit in garter stitch for 6" (increase to 7"-8" for wider stocking, or even more depending on how big a stocking you are making).

Leg:
With RS facing, knit 60 stitchs (3/4 of your total sts). Transfer remaining 30 sts (1/4 of total sts) to your stitch holder. Turn and continue knitting flat for on your active stitches until you have another 6" (or equal length from before transfer of stitches).

Cut yarn, leaving a generous tail and graft these live stitches to your cast on edge to close leg of stocking.

Foot:
Transfer stitches from holder back to your needles and rejoin yarn with right side facing - you will be starting with edge beginning at the leg. Knit as for leg, 6" of gs (or equal to length before transfer of stitches).

Cut yarn, leaving a generous tail and graft these live stitches to your cast on edge to close foot of stocking.

The body of your stocking is now complete. It is a tube with an opening for the heel in the body and the toe at the end of the foot.

Heel and Toe:
Note: The heel and toe are made the exact same way with the same amount of stitches in the contrasting colour (cc).

Heel:
With dpn, starting at right hand-side of leg edge pick up and knit
n1: 28 sts (or as many stitches as needed to bring you to end of leg opening)
Turn stocking counter-clockwise and at right hand corner of foot pick up and knit 28 sts (or equal number of stitches as for leg opening) to meet up with beginning of round. Divide foot stitches evenly between n2 & n3.
n2 & n3 : 14 sts each (or as previously adjusted in pattern).

Toe:
Beginning at edge of seam and working across the bottom of the foot opening, pick up and knit the same amount of stitches for the heel's n1. Switch to n2 and continue picking up and knitting an equal amount across the top of foot opening to meet up with the beginning of round, diving these stitches equally between n2 & n3.

Heel and Toe Construction:

Place stitch marker to mark beginning of round.
Purl 1 round.
Decrease pattern:
r1: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches on n1, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to last 3 sts on n3, k2tog, k1
r2: purl

Continue these 2 decrease rounds until 16 sts remain (or suitable looking number of stitches, depending on adjustments) and graft closed.

Cuff:
I used a spoke pattern from one of Nicky Epstein's books in the cc, but you can do anything you want. If you need to add more stitches to suit the pattern than you did for the heel/toe, make sure you add those stitches evenly across - I'd err on the side of a dozen extra stitches for the cuff than a few less! A horizontal gs would look great, but what about bobbles and cables - or even a simple ribbing?

If you wanted to make a fold-down cuff in vertical stocking stitch that is knitted at the same time as the body, I would add the necessary extra stitches to the leg at when you are casting on.

Make a hanger and attach it, weave in your ends and you are all ready for Santa to stuff it!

Ally's new hat to complement her fancy-schmancy new winter "city" coat or...

Super-simple Ridged Slouchy Hat

My daughter needed a new hat to compliment her new coat - not a "snowsuit" jacket anymore...oh, no, no! she's an urban pre-teen and needs something more city-worthy, apparently.

100 grams worsted weight yarn
4.5 mm 16" circular needles
4.5 mm dpn
stitch marker

Ridged Pattern:
Knit 3 rounds
(Purl 1 round, knit 1 round) 3 times.

Cast on 90 sts. Place marker to mark beginning of round when joining.

Knit in k1,p1 ribbing for 10 rounds.

Evenly, increase 10 stitches while only knitting next round. 100 stitches on needles.

Continue in pattern until you have 3 sets of pattern (for style shown in photo - if you want a slouchier look, have long hair that you want to tuck under the hat...or have a longer head (?), add another set or two - or three - to suit you.).

Decreases will be done over 2 sets of pattern.

Decrease rounds:
Following pattern (i.e. k2tog on knit rounds, p2tog on purl rounds):
Dr1: *k(p)8, k(p)2tog*, repeat to end of round.
Dr2: Knit (or Purl) even

Repeat these 2 rounds, decreasing number of stitches before decrease by one (i.e. next decrease round will be k(p) 7, the following will be k(p) 6...and so on, until there are 20 stitches left. Change to dpn when appropriate

Final Decrease:
*k2tog*, repeat * *to end of round. Cut yarn and draw tail through remaining stitches, sewing off inside the hat.

This hat is pattern is very easy to modify - make the ridges in different colours, increase/ decrease length by knitting extra sets of pattern, increase/decrease # of stitches to make a smaller or larger, use thicker or thinner yarn, make it airier by adding eyelets in between ridges by *yo, k2tog* repeating on 2nd knit rounds...the only limit is your imagination!

Leaving your stash...

Giving up my stash...never! I'm simply going to spend 10 days at the home of friends, looking after their kids, while they are away on a second honeymoon. What I didn't expect was the overwhelming stress of having to choose what yarn to bring with me! I had the car packed, the kids packed - well ahead of my timeline to leave...and, as I sifted through my stash I ended up running late!

What does it say about a woman who has less difficulty leaving her husband for 10 days than leaving her stash behind?

Chainmail – the good kind

Note:  I have designed this to be an easy, quick and flexible knit for the beginner knitter.  Don’t worry too much about gauge, exact size of needles or thickness of yarn – use what you have available that is closest to the suggested types.  This pattern allows for variation because of the stretchiness of the “chainmail”, so if you don’t have the suggest larger size needles, feel free to use a slightly larger or smaller size – whatever you have in your needle case!  You can use worsted with either size of needle, but with the smaller size, it won’t be as open and airy, nor will it be as quick a knit (I knitted mine in an evening!). 

You will need:

1 ball worsted weight yarn (1 ball DK or sportweight yarn)

size 10.5 mm (7.5 mm) 16" circular needles and double pointed needles

size 5 mm (4 mm)16" circular needles and double pointed needles

Directions:

With circular needles, cast on 50 (70) sts, very loosely.  Connect in round, making sure not to twist, place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round.

Knit 1 round.

Chainmail pattern:

Round 1A:  *yfwd, sl1pwise, k1, psso*, repeat * * to end of round

Round 2A:  knit to end of round

Repeat these 2 rounds until your project measures anywhere between 3" and 5", depending on length of your child's neck.

End with Round 1A.

Chainmail Decrease round:

Round 1B:  *knit 3 (5), k2tog*, repeat * * to end of round

Round 2B:  same as Round 1A

Now you have 40 (60) sts on needle.

Return to working Rounds 2A and 1A for another 2 sets for a helmet that has an open face, longer if you want the chain mail to cover higher in the face, ending with round 2A.

Creating Face Opening:

At the beginning of a Round 1A, BO 10 (16) sts.  Continue round as stated in pattern to end of row.  Note, you are no longer working in the round, rather you are now working in rows.

Row 1:  sl1pwise, purl to end of row.

Row 2:  sl1pwise, *yfwd, sl1pwise, k1, psso*, repeat * * to last stitch, k1

Repeat these two rows until your face opening is just above your child's eyebrows (approximately 4"-5"), ending with Row 2.

Creating the helmet:

At the end of Row 2, on large size needles, cast on 10 (16) sts in your favourite manner (backward loop CO works just fine), this will be the forehead.  Now pick up your 5 mm (4mm) needles and you are going to start knitting off the larger needles at the right-hand temple of the helmet with the smaller needles and the yarn that is attached to your forehead cast on.

Round 1C:  kf/b of every stitch (*k1, kf/b*, repeat * * ) to end of round, place stitch marker.  80 (90) sts

Round 2C: purl

Round 3C: knit

Round 4C: purl

Round 5C: knit

Round 6C: purl

Knit 10 (15) more rounds in stocking stitch (knit every round).

Helmet Decrease:

Now, at this point you can create a "beanie" style hat, as shown in the photo, or you can lengthen it.  The taller option will be shown in brackets ().  When it starts to get difficult to knit on the circulars, switch to your dpn.  I suggest that you follow the bracketed pattern if you are working with 4 mm needles, at this point.

Round 1D:  *k8, k2tog *, repeat * * to end of round

Round 2D:  knit

(Round 3D:  knit)

Repeat these 2 (3) rounds, decreasing 1 st between k2tog's - i.e.. next decrease round of k7, k2tog, followed by a round of k6, k2tog...) until you reach *k4, k2tog*, at this point start knitting 2 rounds between decrease rounds until you have *k2tog* to end of round.  Break yarn and weave through stitches and pull closed.  Tie off on underside.  Weave any ends.  Decorate as desired.

Glossary:

BO - bind off

CO - cast on

k – knit

kf/b – this is an increase:  knit into the front of the first stitch on the left hand needle, then immediately knit into back loop of same stitch before letting it drop off left hand needle - you now have 2 stitches on right hand needle

k2tog - knit two stitches together, as one

p- purl

psso - pass the stitch you slipped onto the right hand needle over the last knitted stitch on the right hand needle

sl1pwise - slip 1 stitch as if you were going to purl, but the yarn is still at the back of your work

yfwd – yarn forward – bring yarn to the front of your work, even if you are knitting, it is going to create the “hole”

Two steps forward...one step back

When I started knitting way, way back in the 70's, my grandmother started me off on her leftovers. As I got older, I inherited the odd balls and the leftovers of both my grandmother and my mother. In my youthful ignorance, I referred to all this yarn as "wool", though I am sure that I would have been hard pressed to find even one natural fibre in the lot!

It has only been over the past few years that I have been introduced to natural fibres and all the wonder that comes with them. Wool was my first (and favourite), but everything else from corn to alpaca holds a special place in my heart. I love that when I knit with natural fibres my needles don't get sticky the way they do when I knit with acrylic. I love the variety that you can get - you need warmth? cool? you can get it in a natural fibre - sometimes even in the same one! I love how many of them have the wonderful combination of durability and delicateness.

Of course, some of the natural fibres require a bit of extra care and tenderness (and you can get a whole new project out of it if you don't respect that!), but I think that a little hand washing and drying flat never hurt anyone.

Then, one day, my grandmother made the funniest comment, "Why on earth would you be making that out of wool? It's too much work."

Excuse me? Why? Because wool and knitting are synonymous. How is it more work than anything else?

But, I am not going to argue - or try to change the mind - of a 90 year old woman. I let it go and kept my love of natural fibres to myself.

Then, I took up spinning on a drop spindle. Again, "Why would you want to go to that trouble?" Now, I really had to think about her comments. Why is she trying to discourage me from traditional aspects and pursuits associated with knitting? I pondered this question for a bit and then I had an epiphany.

For much of her life, daily existence required a lot of labour - work that most of us never have to think about. Everything was hand washed - not just the woolens. Most of the wool from her early years was homespun, therefore, requiring a generous input of labour before it even became a finished product. Progress, in her mind, was washing machines (and anything that you could throw in there), man-made fibres and massed produced yarns that saved time and energy. Besides, she has seen the vast improvement in man-made fibres.

My urge to get back to basics is seen as a huge leap backwards to her. I have the luxury of looking at the prospect of hand washing as quaint. She remembers when that was all that got your clothing clean - and how much work it was.

Then I have to think about my own thought process. Do I give a heirloom quality, natural fibre, hand knitted gift to everybody I know? No. I give it only to the ones I know will appreciate and respect the work required for it's care. Many, many people received a lovingly hand knitted, machine washable acrylic gift.